Do you enjoy your côte de boeuf with a side of Calder? Perhaps you are more in the mood for lobster with an accompaniment of Les Lalanne?

Lovers of art and food can have both appetites sated at Marcel, which became the hottest table at the Upper East Side as soon as it opened on April 17. The restaurant occupies the lower level of Sotheby’s new home at the famed Marcel Breuer building. (While the establishment’s name primarily winks at the building’s architect, it also evokes the trickster artist Duchamp, currently the subject of a major MoMA show across town.)   

Led by design duo Roman and Williams in partnership with the auction house, the project brings together several worlds at once: art, design, commerce, and dining. Descend into the space and the room resolves into walnut-paneled walls, low light, and an open kitchen at its center. A pâtisserie operates alongside it, and the wine list is drawn from Sotheby’s own collection, allowing guests to purchase bottles they encounter during their meal.

At the center of it all is chef Marie-Aude Rose, who also oversees the Roman and Williams property La Mercerie downtown. She describes Marcel’s menu as “continental,” a framework that allows for both discipline and range, rooted in French technique but open to influences that reflect the building itself. Marcel Breuer’s Hungarian background surfaces in dishes like chicken paprikash, while others nod more loosely to history and memory.

Here, Rose discusses how the restaurant took shape.

Marcel sits inside a Breuer building. How did the architecture shape the way you thought about the menu?

Not so much the architecture, but the architect. Marcel Breuer was Hungarian, so we brought some of those culinary traditions onto the menu, dishes like chicken paprikash. The menu is “continental” with a French emphasis, but that influence felt important.

How does your approach at Marcel differ from your work at La Mercerie?

Being on the Upper East Side, in a neighborhood where French culinary tradition already has a strong presence, I wanted to lean more into the spirit of a classic brasserie than we do downtown, but without being confined by it. Calling the menu “continental” allows for a broader range of influences. 

The idea is to create something people can return to often, multiple times a week, even multiple times a day. It’s generous and adaptable, which you see in the “Que voulez-vouz” section, where guests can choose how they’d like their meat or fish prepared. The dishes are straightforward, but grounded in the rigor of French technique. 

How do you decide when to stay faithful to tradition and when to push it? 

The Terrine de Boeuf Mode is very classic, both in technique and tradition. On the other hand, something like a lobster bisque with turmeric and ginger is more unexpected. But even those combinations are not entirely new. French cuisine has long been shaped by the spice trade and colonial influences. What may seem untraditional often has its roots in that history. 

What role does the open kitchen play in how you cook or present dishes?

I don’t really think about it. I’ve been working in open kitchens for the past 20 years, so it’s simply how I work.

If someone only orders one thing and a glass of wine, what would you want them to have?

Escargots and Chablis. It is my go-to in Paris, any time of the day.

The wines are from Sotheby’s collection. How does that collaboration work?

It gives us access to an exceptional selection and creates opportunities for guests to experience very special wines during their meal. If they discover something they love, they can immediately order a case to take home, which is quite unique.

The pâtisserie component feels like its own thing entirely. How did you and pastry chef Rae Gaylord think about the role of pastry within the larger experience?

Rae and I opened La Mercerie together in 2017, where she was the pastry chef for four years. Since then, Robin [Alesch] and I have dreamed of making a pâtisserie as its own destination, centered around the pastries and viennoiseries Rae developed during that time.

Marcel felt like the right place to do that. The architecture is quite intense, and the design of the room leans masculine, so the patisserie introduces a sense of softness and delicacy. 

You’re drawing on your Parisian roots while cooking in a very New York context. What’s the biggest difference between New York diners and Parisian diners?

In Paris, diners tend to accept the menu as it is. In New York, guests often want things their own way. 

In France, we approach food, especially with children, very differently. There is one meal. If you don’t like it, you don’t eat it, but we don’t adapt the dish. It’s about educating the palate. 

What role does art play in the menu or dining experience? What artists or artworks served as inspiration?

Claude Monet has always been my favorite painter. When I visited his home in Giverny, I found myself imagining dishes that might belong on the Marcel menu. 

The blue kitchen and the yellow dining room stayed with me. They inspired the lobster with turmeric sauce. In France, we have blue lobsters, and a sauce with subtle curry notes felt like a natural expression of that memory. 

More of our favorite stories from CULTURED

For Diya Vij, Mayor Mamdani’s New Culture Czar, Art Is a Labor Issue

Clowns Are Everywhere. Is It a Sign of the Apocalypse?

Take a Peek Inside New York’s New McNally Restaurant—No, Not that McNally

What Is the Wildest Thing You’ve Written Off Your Taxes? Our Favorite Freelancers Share.

Arts Organizations Are Pulling Out All the Stops to Appeal to a New Generation

Sign up for our newsletter here to get these stories direct to your inbox.

Downtown New York restaurants serve up scenes as readily as they sling entrees out the kitchen. Keith McNally mastered the recipe in the ’90s, opening Balthazar, Pastis, Pravda—rooms that were more social infrastructure than simple places to eat. You went for dinner, but you stayed for everything that happened around it.

Tribeca, for all its square footage and expense, hasn’t quite held onto the lineage. There are still anchors like Frenchette, Locanda Verde, and the ever-booked Odeon, but the sense of movement, of one place bleeding into the next over the course of an evening, is hard to come by in the area.

George McNally is ready to change that. The 22-year-old son of the legendary Balthazar restaurateur is opening his first project this June. The restaurant, cheekily named Faux, is an enormous undertaking. But George, who grew up in his father’s restaurants coloring with crayons in booths, hoisting furniture during build-outs, and shaking drinks behind the bar, feels up to the task. He’s so confident, in fact, that he didn’t take a single penny from the family business.

Stretching over two floors on Church Street, Faux’s upstairs dining room will seat 50 to 60 under high ceilings; downstairs will offer a more intimate, vaulted space with its own entrance and a shorter menu for late-night dining. The kitchen will be led by New York-born and raised chef Kristina Ramos, who comes to Faux from the acclaimed kitchens of Eleven Madison Park and Oxalis. Her approach will hew close to the French classics, unpretentious and served to be shared in a social setting. The space itself follows a similar feel, with custom crown moldings and homey salvaged furniture. It’s still under construction, but the shape of it is already becoming clear, sometimes literally sketched on the walls in pencil.

For George, the project is as much about process as it is about outcome. The name is a joke at his own expense—“might as well beat them to the punch,” he says—but it also reflects the awareness of what it means to open a restaurant under the weight of a local legacy, and the decision to do it anyway. Here, he talks us through the thought process. 

You walked me through the space earlier. How do you want it to feel when it all comes together? 

Upstairs, we’re keeping the high ceilings but restructuring how the room works. When you walk in, you should be able to make eye contact with the bartender straight away. At Balthazar, where I worked at the bar, we used to pull people away from the dining room; if someone was waiting for their table, you’d catch their eye, give them a little wave, and they’d come over for a drink instead. The ceiling upstairs is grand, so we’re leaning into that, installing large lights you’ll be able to see from the street in front of the Roxy. It’ll seat around 50 or 60.

Downstairs is more intimate and will be a clubby bar. We’re lowering and vaulting the ceiling so it curves, which makes it feel slightly cavernous. Have you ever seen photos of Pravda, my dad’s bar from the ’90s? There were multiple ways in. We’re doing something similar. There’s a staircase from the restaurant and a separate entrance from the street. Those pathways are important for how people move through the space. There’ll also be a small pass-through window by the bar, with a shorter menu like those clubs from the ’80s where you’re dancing but still having chips or something. It just makes for a better night, I think.

Why Tribeca?

Tribeca could become great. It used to be cool, but now it’s become more residential, a bit stagnant. It just doesn’t feel like there’s enough happening to make people want to stay out here. 

The difference is, if you go out somewhere like Spring Street, around Crosby and Bowery, you see the same faces all night. You pop into one place, then another, step out for a bit, and you’ll run into someone you saw earlier somewhere else. That overlap is what makes it interesting.

Around here, I don’t really see that happening. It’s all quite segmented. No one at Walker’s is going to Paul’s Baby Grand. Frenchette has its own crowd—Macao too. I like all of those places, but they don’t really mix. There isn’t a proper watering hole where everything comes together. I’d like Faux to be somewhere where those different groups all end up in the same room, a sort of go-to place for the area.

What are the things you’ve been super particular about?

Everything. We’re very specific about the plaster work on the walls. Lighting is maybe the most important thing in a restaurant, or at least for the feel. Most of the place is custom millwork. Some of the furniture has been salvaged from antique warehouses or storage units. Even the artworks on the walls are all going to be done on-site by artists. No artwork is outsourced. We’ve put a lot of thought into the sconces as well. They’re inspired by Lucky Strike, originally done by Lynn Wagenknecht, my dad’s ex-wife. They have these collaged elements that gave them a really hands-on feel.

A lot of those crafts are harder to find now. It’s all big companies doing multiple jobs at once. That kind of real expertise feels like it’s disappearing a bit, so I’m trying to find people who are very good at one thing. You can see when someone’s cut corners. Something might look great at first—nice walls, good lighting—but then the bar top feels cheap, and it throws everything off. Once you start building your own, you start noticing it everywhere.

Can you tell me about the name of the restaurant?

It’s going to be called Faux. When you’re doing something like this for the first time—I don’t know if it ever really goes away—but you do feel a bit like a fraud. At the end of the day, what I’ve grown up around is English people making French restaurants in America, and here I am doing the same. It feels natural in one sense, but I still have that feeling. I’m also sure people are going to give me a hard time through this opening, so I thought I might as well beat them to the punch and make fun of it myself.

How did you know Faux was the one?

I just liked how it looked. I like those kinds of letters—X’s, Y’s, things you don’t see that often in names. I’m sure people will pronounce it differently, like “fox,” but that’s sort of the point. No one really knows French anyway.

How would you describe the food, beyond just calling it French? 

Unpretentious. Just good food. Something nostalgic, something easy. Everything now feels very out there, almost too out there. A lot of places feel like they have to do something shocking or extreme. It’s better to just do something really well. Maybe you push something slightly, add your own little twist, but you can’t do things with the sole intention of surprising people. Classic recipes exist for a reason. There’s a history to them, and that’s something that should be looked after.

I don’t like tableside performance either. Someone building your tartare for three minutes while you have to stop your conversation is just extremely uncomfortable. If you want someone cooking in front of you, go to Koreatown.

How will it compare to the places you grew up around?

It will be a little lighter than a traditional French bistro. I want it to be very social, shared plates, somewhere that you go to for the atmosphere, but then I want the food to exceed expectations and surprise. I’ve given our chef, Kristina Ramos, a lot of freedom since we’re very aligned on how the food should be. The only thing I really insisted on was having a burger. There should always be a burger. Not a smash burger, a proper one.

Can you tell me a bit about your childhood? What was it like growing up in restaurants?

I grew up in restaurant booths with crayons or sitting in on tastings. I’d be given small tasks on site during build out, and you just pick things up that way. There are things that come up now that I realize I know just from having been in those environments. I definitely looked up to my dad but also to the people around him, some of whom I work with now. I always thought Ian McPheely, who co-designed Balthazar and Pastis, was a genius. Now I’m working with him. Richard Lewis was the architect on a lot of my dad’s places, and now I’m working with his son, Zach Lewis, who’s fantastic.

What do you think your dad understands about restaurants that other people don’t?

My dad has a very high attention to detail. It’s also about having a set of principles—how you work, how you deal with people, where you draw the line in different situations. A big part of it is building an illusion that holds together. It’s less about getting everything right and more about not getting anything wrong. One thing that breaks the feeling can undo everything very quickly.

Do you think he’ll criticize the space?

Yeah, definitely. He already has. My dad came by the space and thought it was a bit boring, but one can always find something wrong with everything. He did write something about it on Instagram, though, which I think was his way of saying he’s proud.

How much have you leaned on other people while putting this together?

It’s been quite important to me to do this on my own. The best way to learn anything, at least in my experience, is to actually do it. You try it, struggle with it, and figure it out as you go. Even if this place is a total flop, I’ll have learned the entire process. You don’t really understand something unless you go through every step of it. There’s probably a part of me that wants to prove something as well. People will always say I’m only able to do this because of my background. That’s just how people are. But for the people I actually care about, I want them to see that I’m really trying, and that I’m doing it properly, in my own way.

How did you feel about your dad’s memoir I Regret Almost Everything?

I went through phases. At first, I felt slightly confused by it, but it was important to him so I wasn’t going to criticize it. When it came out, I was still working at the bar, and I was worried people would come in and treat me differently. Some people tried to buy me drinks because they felt bad, which was a bit strange. I also didn’t like that people who didn’t know me would suddenly feel like they did. I didn’t want to be seen as a character from a story. When people really like a book, they start to see things that way. 

When you look ahead five years, what kind of restaurateur do you want to be? 

I have no idea, honestly. I’ll have to see what actually makes a great owner since there isn’t really one model. Some people are very good at working the room, and others stay more in the background and create a kind of mystery. It’s interesting how people start to associate a space with a person. Sometimes it happens naturally, and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. You can try to force it, but if you try too hard to make it about you, it won’t work. I’d also like to do other projects, so I’ll probably be here four or five days a week at the beginning, but not forever.

When you picture opening night, what do you see?

We’re planning to do three or four opening nights, staggered. One will be friends and family, another more like a VIP night, and one focused on the people who worked on the project and their families. I’ll be there for all of them. I’m still deciding whether I’ll work the bar or be on the floor. I might try different roles on different nights. I think a couple of them will be packed with really interesting people. It might end up being more scene-y than I’d ideally want, but that’s part of it.

What about the crowd?

Only really attractive people. Kidding! It should be a good mix. I really like the crowd I have at the bar at Balthazar, and I think that will translate. The people who come once or twice a week, I want them to feel like they can do that here as well. I try to keep the ecosystem balanced across different ages. It’s much more fun that way. You never want to go somewhere where it’s all one type of person. Even if it’s a young, hip place, if it’s only young, hip people, it gets a bit dull. What I like is when different scenes come together. When that happens, something actually forms. That’s what I’m hoping for.

More of our favorite stories from CULTURED

Marcel Duchamp Obliterated Expectations of What Art Could Be. These 4 Artists Are Carrying His Mantle.

How The Pitt’s Patrick Ball Went From Role-Playing Corporate Trainings to Starring on Broadway

The 2026 CULTURED Power Advisor List: Meet the Art Advisors Shaping the World’s Top Collections

A New Book Unearths the Heated Rivalry Between Artists Peter Hujar and Paul Thek

Speed Round! 13 Critics Review 25 NYC Shows Before You Finish Your Morning Coffee

Sign up for our newsletter here to get these stories direct to your inbox.

Karolyn Pho, stylist

Best Accessory?

The Archive x Yana.

Most Splurge-Worthy Piece?

Aralda.

Best Hidden Gem?

Mothfood.

Best Spot To Bring Out-of-Towners To?

Varsity.

Charlotte Dalessio, model

Best Going-Out Look?

Little Shop in Echo Park. They will loan for events, and I love their clothes.

Most Splurge-Worthy Piece?

They’re always most expensive at curated places. Maybe Reformation Vintage. Their curation for shoes is really amazing.

Best Last-Minute Outfit Save?

Iguana Vintage. But you have to be in a fun mood.

Best Hidden Gem?

Not a hidden gem but slept on: Squaresville.

Best Shoe Section?

An estate sale. With a woman in your size. Unbeatable.

Cierra O’day Johnson, model

Best Accessory?

I get most of my fabulous clip-on earrings, costume jewelry, and hats from Cannonball & Tilly. The last time I went in, the owner called me “the hat girl” because I inevitably end up trying on five to 10 hats from the top shelves every time I visit.

Best Going-Out Look?

Recess is my favorite shop when I want a standout piece without completely breaking the bank. They strike the perfect balance of having an incredible selection while still feeling thoughtfully curated. I always find something special. Most recently, I treated myself to a vintage Balenciaga dress.

Best Last-Minute Outfit Save?

Scout for many reasons, but most importantly because I live super close. If I’m suddenly itching for something special to wear that same day, I can just walk over. I also know so many girlfriends who stop there before a date or a birthday dinner to grab something great.

Best Spot to Bring Out-of-Towners To?

Ending Soon. The first time you go, it feels like a bit of a scavenger hunt (kind of in the middle of town—you ring a doorbell and walk up some stairs), but once you’re inside it’s incredibly chic and full of the friendliest people. I feel like there’s something for everyone there. Of course, I love taking people over to Telegrama for pancakes afterwards.

Best Basics?

RLT has the best basics, from cashmere sweaters to vintage Levi’s. It’s one of those places where you can always find a great wardrobe staple.

Karley Sciortino, writer and Substacker behind Hot Line

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

Timeless Vixen. The owner, Lauren, is an incredibly gifted and knowledgeable vintage curator. This is definitely the place for specialty pieces—pristine gowns from the 1930s, rare Bob Mackie gowns, etc. It’s not a shocker that celebrities flock here for red carpet looks.

Best Last-Minute Outfit Save?

I’ve been going to Cherry Pick Vintage in Los Feliz for years. It’s the kind of place you can get a great vintage T-shirt or cute skirt for under $50, if you’re having an “I hate everything in my closet” meltdown.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

I’m a ride or die for the Pasadena Goodwill. I recently had a dinner party where a bunch of gays were screaming “OMG, where did you get this cunt bowl?!” and they were scandalized to hear I got it at the Goodwill for literally $1.

Best Hidden Gem?

Bridge Thrift in Eagle Rock. Looks like a run-of-the-mill thrift at first glance, but they’ve got a great selection of costume jewelry, cute home stuff, vintage plates, plant pots. Most of the knickknacks in my house are from here.

Best Shoe Section?

Passport Vintage in Highland Park is great for shoes and accessories. There’s also a shop puppy named Churro, which makes everything better.

Greg & Grace Chait

Designer of the Elder Statesman

Best Going-Out Look?

I’ve been going to What Goes Around Comes Around for as long as I’ve been buying clothes. One of the best things I ever found there is an all-white vintage Versace shirt that I still reach for on dressier occasions. Classic and very much of its era.

Best Deep-Dig Moment?

About eight years ago I found a “Deadagonia” Grateful Dead shirt at the Rose Bowl Flea Market that absolutely blew my mind.

Best Hidden Gem?

Vintage on Hollywood. Appointment-only and completely unreal. Brian is a true wealth of knowledge when it comes to vintage.

Best Sunglasses Section?

Retro Specs & Co.

Dani Miller, musician

Best Going-Out Look?

Bearded Beagle is my favorite for any cute outfits.

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

A vintage dress from Worship Collective.

Best Last-Minute Outfit Save?

Basics from Out of the Closet.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

Sundays at Jet Rag—a classic dig.

Best Sunglasses Section?

Soft Humans in Highland Park.

Liz Goldwyn, writer and Substacker behind STARF*CKER

Best Going-Out Look / Best Accessory / Most Splurge-Worthy Piece / Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

That would all be Aralda on Beachwood—and bring your Platinum Amex. Or, this 1960s Balenciaga couture “Bubble” dress of mine online from Arcade Vintage.

Best Value-for-Money / Best Deep Dig Moment / Best Hidden Gem?

These have to be hitting a vintage fair—but going early and in the headspace to shop, not socialize. I love Pickwick, A Current Affair, and the Vintage Expo in San Francisco and LA.

Best Spot To Bring Out-of-Towners To?

I would bring them to a specialty auction at Julien’s. They are currently selling a selection of items from Gwyneth Paltrow, but often have great estate sales of dead celebrities or defunct costume departments.

Best Shoe Section?

My ex-husband made me stop buying seriously vintage shoes (like pre-1970) because my 1940s slippers and ’50s kitten mules were always breaking in the middle of the street in New York and it drove him crazy. Now I stick to barely worn and barely a decade old max from the RealReal.

Best Sunglasses Section?

Old Focals in Pasadena for new old stock (deadstock) vintage frames. They work with most of the film and TV wardrobe departments as well.

Joanna Kuchta, DJ

Best Going-Out Look?

Scout on Melrose. They have so many cool, rare pieces, lots of furs and leather jackets, and good shoes. Often pieces from Ann Demeulemeester, Chloé, and non-branded vintage finds that are just gold.

Best Accessory?

Little Shop on Sunset Boulevard. They have amazing vintage designer shoes and fun statement pieces. More colorful than the rest of my recommendations but great for an accessory piece.

Most Splurge-Worthy Piece? 

Recess LA. They have amazing designer vintage pieces and some truly insane runway items. Everything is really well researched, and the staff know exactly which collection each piece is from—they can even show you photos of the original runway looks. I love going there when I’m looking for something special.

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

Felt Showroom in Lincoln Heights (appointment-only). They have beautiful, minimalistic designer pieces that are just heaven. A lot of cool girls’s stylists often pull from here, like Gabbriette.

Harmony Tividad, musician

Best Going-Out Look?

Lidow Archive and Mint Condition Vintage has insane looks! I love antique swag, which Mint Condition has a lot of.

Best Accessory?

Playclothes in Burbank. They have so much endless, amazing vintage—some costumey stuff, some more classic. It’s the best place ever, across so many times and styles.

Most Splurge-Worthy Piece?

Replika! Their curation is crazy for really singular vintage designer pieces.

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

Veronika Milanko’s booth at the Rose Bowl Flea Market #J22. It’s heavenly. Her designer selection is crazy. I’ve got two amazing vintage Chanel bags from her.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

Jet Rag Dollar Day Sundays—but also Jet Rag not on Sundays has so much insane stuff in their store. It’s one of my favorite places in LA, and I’ve been going to Dollar Day with my mom since I was like a baby, rolling around in the clothes and getting in trouble. Have found so much amazing stuff at Dollar Day over the years.

Avalon Lurks, musician

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

The mecca for mind-blowing, museum-worthy pieces used to be the Way We Wore. I worked there in 2022 and took for granted the sheer amount of incredible pieces I was being exposed to. Beyond designer archive, we’re talking pristine historic pieces from as far back as the 1600s. Learning from Doris Raymond was invaluable—she even had a show on the Smithsonian about her store and later held a Julien’s auction of over 400 pieces from her archive when she retired. If people couldn’t find what they were looking for at her store, she’d always recommend walking up the street to check out Golyester. Timeless Vixen on Beverly is also incredible.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

I respectfully can’t expose my spots… I will say, if you have a few hours to spare—maybe an entire day—and an adequate amount of caffeine or uppers in your system, the thrift stores in East LA and the downtown area are filled with good shit.

Best Hidden Gem?

Ending Soon, women’s. Love to Houman, Senya, and Baily. Absolutely top-tier taste level and curation. There’s not a bad piece in there and they carry both men and women.

Best Spot To Bring Out-of-Towners To?

I always bring people to my hometown, Orange. Specifically the Orange Circle, which I grew up two blocks from and is world-renowned for its antique malls and vintage culture. Elsewhere and Joyride Vintage are sister stores owned by the same couple (and at the men’s one they actually hand-make custom hats in the back). The Orange Antique Mall and the Antique Depot are musts, and I always stop by Matoska Trading to pick up sage bundles and herbs on my way out.

Jess Valice, artist

Best Going-Out Look?

Felt Showroom and Timeless Vixen.

Most Splurge-Worthy Piece?

Taste Studio.

Best Hidden Gem?

Something Special Vintage.

Best Sunglasses Section?

Lucky Pig Vintage in Atwater Village.

Best Shoe Section?

Wasteland on Melrose. Sorry.

Jamie Haller, designer of  Jamie Haller

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

Soft Humans and Wilder. I’m a jeans with a tee or sweatshirt kind of girl, so finding the perfect pair of vintage Levi’s or a worn-in vintage tee is the best. You can find some of the rarest concert tees and denim at either store. They are both on the pricier side, but great if you don’t have time to go digging. They’ve already found it for you.

Best Last-Minute Outfit Save?

Staklena Kuca is fun. Fashion should be fun. I find it’s the place I gravitate to after I’ve been searching all day for something extra cool to wear.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

The bins at Goodwill in Glassell Park. Come mentally prepared, as this place can get crazy and digging is an understatement. However, you can find vintage and designer items for pennies per pound. My daughter loves it! It’s like treasure hunting.

Best Hidden Gem?

Savers in Arcadia. I struggled with giving this one away. It’s my secret. The men’s section is where I find a lot of my inspiration. Great colors, stripes, boxy shapes, and, of course, a great price so you can stock up.

Best Value for Money?

The Bearded Beagle. Perceived value is important. I find this store has a good variety of clothing and accessories that are worth their asking price. Most of their designer vintage items are priced fairly and well under their competition.

Morgan Maher, photographer

Most Splurge-Worthy Place?

Aralda Vintage, a beautiful selection of curated rare pieces you only dream of.

Most Gasp-Worthy Grail?

Another Man’s Treasure Vintage—you can find everything you never knew you wanted there.

Best Deep Dig Moment?

Playclothes—you will find something so charming there, no matter what.

Best Value-for-Money?

Felt Showroom—they have the coolest pieces.

Best Spot To Bring Out-of-Towners To?

Rose Bowl Flea Market.

More of our favorite stories from CULTURED

Dries Van Noten Opens Up About His Next Chapter: ‘We Didn’t Stop to Have a Quiet Life’

Psychoanalysts Jamieson Webster and Adam Phillips on How to Get the Life You Want

The Best Oscars Red Carpet Looks of All Time, According to 14 Very Opinionated People

Love Story’s Costumes Could Have Tanked the Show. Then Rudy Mance Stepped In.

Is the 82nd Whitney Biennial Weird Enough to Match Our Chaotic National Mood? John Vincler Thinks So

Sign up for our newsletter here to get these stories direct to your inbox.

Rob Franklin, author

The Look: LaKeith Stanfield’s Saint Laurent jumpsuit
The Year: 2021
Why It Matters: “Scrolling red carpet pics, I often lament the limitations of menswear, until I see a look that revitalizes the whole concept. LaKeith Stanfield’s Saint Laurent jumpsuit was one such look. Sleek and ’70s sexy, it accentuates that snatched little waist of his while still offering a contemporary take on black tie, sufficiently formal for the Oscars. To me, it’s perfection.”

Maya Golyshkina, artist

The Look: Gwyneth Paltrow’s Ralph Lauren dress
The Year: 1999
Why It Matters: “She looked so stunning and ethereal in that soft pink gown, effortlessly glamorous!”

Katey Rich, awards editor at The Ankler

The Look: Michelle Williams’s yellow Vera Wang gown
The Year: 2006
Why It Matters: “It was both wonderfully simple and sneakily daring—that color and fabric can go so wrong on red carpets, but every detail of her gown was perfect, including the red lipstick that went with it. It was her first nomination for what’s turned out to be a stellar career. The fact that it was the only time she ever attended the awards with her then-partner Heath Ledger adds a bittersweet touch of Hollywood myth and tragedy to the whole thing.”

Ivy Wolk, actor

The Look: Liza Minelli in vintage Halston
The Year: 2014
Why It Matters: “She was feeling puss as fuck with a little blue streak in her bangs, flashing a peace sign with one hand and a palm-sized pearl-encrusted clutch in the other. She is wearing non-slip shoes you’d see in a McDonald’s kitchen. Looking a damn mess and so happy to be out of the house!”

Timothy Chernayev, stylist and fashion critic

The Look: Faye Dunaway in Theadora Van Runkle
The Year: 1968
Why It Matters: “I love the shoe, I love the aura, and I love the tension of the hair and makeup against the dress. It was so ahead of its time—a 27-year-old could wear this today exactly as it’s styled and turn heads.”

View this post on Instagram

Biz Sherbert, editor and podcaster of Nymphet Alumni

The Look: Jennifer Connelly in her Balenciaga scarf
The Year: 2002
Why It Matters: “Her flattering ruffles and gauzy neutrals continue to inspire.”

Thor Shannon, art dealer

The Look: Trey Parker and Matthew Stone dressed as Jennifer Lopez and Gwyneth Paltrow
The Year: 2000
Why It Matters: “When they showed up to the Oscars high on acid, it was the most beautiful anyone has ever looked on the red carpet.”

Rian Phin, fashion critic

The Look: Whoopi Goldberg‘s Bob Mackie-designed Queen Elizabeth costume
The Year: 1999
Why It Matters: “It was the same year as Celine Dion’s iconic backwards suit and Gwyneth Paltrow’s pink gown. This costume change was so elaborate, and such a funny contrast against the ’90s red carpet gowns.”

Chris Black, creative director and podcaster of How Long Gone

The Look: Jack Nicholson in a black tuxedo and sunglasses
The Year: 1976
Why It Matters: “Classic in every way, with a slightly floppy bow tie and aviators that fit his face perfectly.”

Aaron Levine, designer

The Look: Robert Redford in a black tuxedo
The Year: 1981
Why It Matters: “Clothing is the canvas, and the individual is the artwork. The coolest in the room is the quietest. Not the loudest clamoring for attention. Quiet, intelligent, confident. That, to me, is individual and special.”

Amy Odell, writer of Back Row

The Look: Björk’s Marjan Pejoski swan dress
The Year: 2001
Why It Matters: “I recall her being pilloried for making that choice because everyone else was basically playing it safe in mermaid gowns, and people weren’t as exposed to fashion as they are today with social media. I think if someone wore that today, it would be much differently received. If you look at it now, it doesn’t even look that crazy.”

Anastasia Vartanian, fashion critic

The Look: Cher’s custom Bob Mackie ensemble
The Year: 1986
Why It Matters: “Bob Mackie and Cher had worked together extensively before this moment, but on this occasion he was initially reluctant. He thought that [the look] wasn’t something you should wear to the Oscars, but Cher didn’t care. She’d been snubbed that year and felt that the Academy didn’t take her seriously because of the way she dressed—so she went all in. I love this look not only because it is fabulous, but the petty and rebellious story behind it makes it even better. The all-black is so perfect because it makes this crazy look work. The headdress looks like it could actually be her hair— it’s just so cool. Today, we’re used to celebrities pulling a look and competing for virality with fashion, but at the time it wasn’t like that. This story is an interesting window into how celebrity culture has evolved.”

Angelica Hicks, fashion tastemaker and performer

The Look: Cher’s custom Bob Mackie ensemble
The Year: 1986
Why It Matters: “Not only because I have recreated it, but has anyone ever looked more fabulous or toned?”

Declan Chan, stylist and creative consultant

The Look: Jennifer Lawrence’s Spring/Summer 2013 Dior Haute Couture gown
The Year: 2013
Why It Matters: “I love the moment that she fell and rose again—it was a fashion moment and so unserious. This Dior Haute Couture gown has the perfect silhouette and fabric. It’s simple yet dramatic, but not screaming for attention. It fits her character perfectly.”

New York Fashion Week is usually a blur, fueled by countless Diet Cokes and iced coffees, downed in between runway hopping, dodging influencers desperate to get in front of street style photographers, and parties that last late into the night (did you wear the right shoes for all this? Of course not.) That is to say, it’s a marathon, not a race, and if you’re in it for the long haul, your body deserves more than eight almonds and four espresso martinis.

There’s nothing more chic than a power lunch or a cheeky nightcap—these are, after all, where the deals are really made. We tapped some of the most fashionable people we know—including model Lila Moss, designers Joseph Altuzarra, Kim Shui, and LaQuan Smith, critic Rachel Tashjian, editor Ludwig Hurtado, stylist Caitlin Burke, and more—to spill all their best kept NYFW food secrets. 

Best Martini

“I don’t drink classic martinis, but I do love an espresso martini. My favorite is at Monsieur, just make sure to get it without the banana.”—LILA MOSS

“Donahue’s, on the Upper East Side, is the only bar that knows how cold a martini glass and its attendant gin need to be: frigid! Frigid as a lonely witch! Conveniently, it’s right next to the Marc Jacobs show!”—RACHEL TASHJIAN

“I’m more of an espresso martini girl, but San Vicente has the best of all varieties.”—CAITLIN BURKE

“Downtown: Minetta Tavern—Victoria (one of the maitre d’s) is one of my favorite people in New York. Uptown: Caviar Kaspia. The Vesper will put you in an Uber back downtown.”—AVA VAN OSDOL

“I know it’s really known for its seafood, but Cervo’s is a place that really knows its vermouth! And I love vermouth. For some reason, even in 2026, many bartenders will still look at you weird when you order your martini wet. Thankfully Cervo’s makes an excellent 50/50 martini.”—LUDWIG HURTADO

“Claudia’s in East Williamsburg has a $6 happy hour martini…”—ELLA SNYDER

Best Coffee

“I’m not a coffee drinker, but I take my matcha very seriously. If you’re up early enough to skip the queue, 12 Matcha is worth the hype.”—MOSS

“Decompressing midday is better than going turbo. Anywhere that will serve me a green tea in a non-disposable cup, that I can sit and sip while pondering the mysteries of the great cigarette pant comeback or whatever, is ideal. When chaos is swirling, you need to ground yourself with elegance! Sant Ambroeus, for example, has the most delicate teacups. The handle is like a large but angelic spider’s arm, and I prefer to relax in an arachnid-adjacent fashion whenever possible.”—TASHJIAN

“Drip Drop Cafe.”—KIM SHUI

“Francesco on Greene St (conveniently right across from the Kallmeyer showroom, where I’ll be parked all week!)”—BURKE

“Porto Rico Importing Co.”—LYNETTE NYLANDER

“Not to be too woo-woo, but especially when I’m working, I prefer celery juice or bone broth over coffee—sorry! Smile To Go or Springbone always. Madhufalla is the OG Nolita, unpretentious juice spot.”—VAN OSDOL

“The Monroe.”—SOPHIA LAMAR

“I don’t drink coffee, but I do drink matcha, and the best place for those is Matchaful. Get the oishii berry iced matcha—you won’t regret it.”—JOSEPH ALTUZARRA

“Laughing Man.”—MERUERT TOLEGEN

“They do takeaway too, but Abraço is my favorite place to grab coffee when I have the rare luxury of 30 minutes to sit and sip. I’m lactose intolerant and they straight up do not offer dairy alternatives, so there’s something sort of masochistic about it for me too.”—HURTADO

“I’m really into Derby Cup off of Canal St. Any horse girl will love their interior design.”—SNYDER

“Blue Bottle. Simple, precise, does the job.”—LAQUAN SMITH

“Culture 307 on West 38th street. My go-to order is a black Americano. The coffee is good but I mainly like it because it’s right next to our studio in the garment district.”—ASHLYNN PARK

Best Place to See and Be Seen

“If you want to be seen, go to Bar Pitti.”—MOSS

“On the subway. Taking a car in Manhattan is foolish—although if a show is far-flung, I love to share a car with a pal or three and gossip.”—TASHJIAN

“People’s or the Eighty Six just to flex that you nabbed a res.”—BURKE

“Right now in New York, the interiors world is throwing the chicest, sexiest parties. Anything the Apparatus Room or Alex Tiwa is hosting—I want to be there.”—VAN OSDOL

“Tawny.”—LAMAR

“Balthazar, the Odeon, any Keith McNally spot.”—TOLEGEN

“The part of Chinatown many refer to as ‘Dimes Square’… the specific spot changes frequently.”—SNYDER

Best Place To Go Incognito

“If you don’t want to see anyone and eat dinner in peace go to May Kaidee for delicious authentic Thai food cooked by May herself.”—MOSS

“Manuela.”—SHUI

“I love how intimate Titsou, inside Fouquet’s is.”—BURKE

“The backseat of an Uber… or Red Hook.”—VAN OSDOL

“Bolzot Bar.”—LAMAR

“The subway.”—ALTUZARRA

“The New World Mall food court in Flushing, Queens.”—SNYDER

Best Bodega Order

“Smoked turkey, crispy turkey bacon, jalapeño, lettuce tomato mayo on toasted rye. Or grilled chicken, lemon, olive oil, capers, black pepper, lettuce tomato mayo on toasted roll.”—SHUI

“An everything bagel, scooped out, with just avocado and butter (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it)”—BURKE

“I’m gluten-free and dairy-free… until you give me a BEC. Luckily, more places have GF toast now—just don’t give me the cheese.”—VAN OSDOL

“Whatever you need, as soon as possible.”—LAMAR

“Toasted everything bagel plus scallion cream cheese plus cucumbers, and dill.”—TOLEGEN

“A turkey club with avocado, a La Croix, and a pack of Parliaments.”—HURTADO

“A deli sandwich: pepper turkey, cheddar cheese, onion, mayo, salt and pepper, oil and vinegar on a roll, with cheddar and sour cream Ruffles chips on the side.”—LAQUAN SMITH

“A BLT.”—PARK

Best Place To Put It On Someone Else’s Tab

“Reporters always pay their own way!”—TASHJIAN

“Polo Bar.”—BURKE

“The Grill.”—VAN OSDOL

“Clandestino.”—LAMAR

“Torrisi! A chic spot with actually fantastic food which encourages you to count neither calories nor dollar signs.”—HURTADO

“Lucien.”—SNYDER

“Tatiana, or I really would like someone to take me to Little B.”—NYLANDER

Best After-Party Haunt

“Anyone’s apartment where we can still listen to music and where I can order 7th Street Burger loaded fries to.”—MOSS

“Eckhaus Latta hosted a party at the Russian Tea Room during a snowstorm last February. We danced around an enormous translucent polar bear fish tank. Fabulous.”—TASHJIAN

“Jean’s.”—BURKE

“A spacious, dimly lit Tribeca loft.”—VAN OSDOL

“The most secretive one.”—LAMAR

 “Someone’s apartment… anyone in a tax bracket higher than me. Or any 24 hour diner.”—SNYDER

“Basement! And no one’s checking the time.”—SMITH

Best Room Service

“Fouquet’s mashed potatoes.”—MOSS

“I haven’t slept in a New York hotel since I first visited in 2000! But I love the breakfast at Fouquet’s in Tribeca. Terrific bacon.”—TASHJIAN

“Nine Orchard.”—SHUI

“The Greenwich Hotel.”—BURKE

“Club sandwich, fries, and a Coke. If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.”—VAN OSDOL

“The Mercer.”—LAMAR

“The Bowery Hotel or Hotel Chelsea.”—SNYDER

“Fries, buffalo wings and a glass of champagne. Reliable. Always hits.”—SMITH

“I rarely stay in hotels or order room service. But when I do… the best thing is always burgers and fries.”—PARK

Best Emergency Bag Snack

“Justin’s dark chocolate peanut butter cups.”—MOSS

“Almonds.”—SHUI

“Fruit that I stole from the airport lounge of my last trip.”—BURKE

“Justin’s almond butter sachets.”—VAN OSDOL

“Nora Seaweed snacks.”—LAMAR

“Gummy bears, perfect for both cranky grownups and kiddos.”—ALTUZARRA

 “Peanut M&Ms.”—TOLEGEN

“I hate to admit it, but the private equity protein bar actually tastes good.”—HURTADO

“Chomps. Processed meat may be what kills me.”—SNYDER

“Dark Chocolate, at least 70 percent.”—PARK

“Orange Tic Tacs. They aren’t strictly a snack, but I eat them like they are.”— NYLANDER

Best Hangover Cure

“The best hangover cure is Blue Ribbon Sushi tuna crispy rice.”—MOSS

“Fashion critics famously get up at 5 or 6 a.m. to write—you file your piece and take edits on the go, which takes a deranged amount of focus and delusion—so I don’t really drink during fashion month. But sunglasses indoors and a seat at a show next to someone who really makes you laugh will do the trick.”—TASHJIAN

“Coffee!”—SHUI

“Magnesium and coconut water. As a snob, I think Once Upon a Coconut has officially surpassed Harmless Harvest.”—VAN OSDOL

“Bone broth for breakfast! Brodo makes one that has ginger in it, and it really brings you back to life. Or, when you really want the indulgence, the best breakfast sandwich in the city is Thai Diner’s Egg Sandwich.”—HURTADO

“The aforementioned bodega bacon, egg, and cheese with an Advil, iced coffee and a gallon of water.”—SNYDER

“Another drink and a pickle/pickle juice in that order. It works every time.”—SMITH

“I was once brought back to life by an extra large Pho Tai from the Pho 2 with a lot of chilis and a salted lemonade.”—NYLANDER

Best Excuse To Get Out Of A Party

“‘I’m on deadline.’ Everyone should use that, even if they’re not a reporter. It’s so old school. On deadline for what? Who knows! We all need to cultivate a bit more mystery!”—TASHJIAN

“I Irish exit a lot… Sorry, Uber is here!”—SHUI

“Being employed. No one should have to apologize for getting up early to work the next day—it’s cool to have bookings!”—VAN OSDOL

“I need to relieve the babysitter.”—ALTUZARRA

“When any of the reality TV you binge is airing, ‘Sorry I can’t, my show is on that night,’ is a super valid excuse in my circle.”—SNYDER

“No excuses needed. Just ghost.”—NYLANDER

“Anything involving my kids!”—PARK

More of our favorite stories from CULTURED

Tessa Thompson Took Two Years Out of the Spotlight. This Winter, She’s Back With a Vengeance.

On the Ground at Art Basel Qatar: 84 Booths, a Sprinkle of Sales, and One Place to Drink

How to Nail Your Wellness Routine, According to American Ballet Theater Dancers

‘As Close to Art as Pop Gets’: Jarrett Earnest on Charli XCX, ‘The Moment,’ and Our Culture of Hyper-Exposure

10 of New York’s Best-Dressed Residents Offer the Ultimate Guide to Shopping Vintage in the City

Sign up for our newsletter here to get these stories direct to your inbox.

Mexico City has some of the best food in the world, which is exactly why you can’t afford to get it wrong. The city is vast, the choices are constant, and even experienced diners can find themselves making compromises. Add Zona Maco week, when time is limited and reservations are scarce, and deciding where to eat becomes its own kind of logistical problem.

Rather than leaving those calls to chance, we asked the chefs who know the city best—Lucho Martínez of Ultramarinos Demar and the Michelin-starred Em; Elena Reygadas of Rosetta, named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2023; Gabriela Cámara of Bib Gourmand-awarded Contramar; and Tyler Henry of the Thai-influenced Choza—to share how they actually navigate it. Whatever you’re looking for, at any hour of the day, they’ve already figured it out—from breakfast chilaquiles and reliable solo dining to late-night bites and hangover cures.

Best Breakfast 

Lucho Martínez: “El Cardenal in downtown Mexico City. Don’t miss the conchas con nata.”
Tyler Henry: “Expendio de Maíz. I encourage a slow breakfast, but most days I come here and grab a few tortillas con sal en ruta to my own kitchen. Divine heirloom masa with a hit of whatever salsa, mole, or guisado they’ve got cooking that day.”
Elena Reygadas: “Gia. Italian-American breakfast with a diverse menu that should please everyone. Focaccia, egg dishes, fresh-pressed juices.“
Gabriela Cámara: “Fonda Margarita. Pure Mexico City breakfast energy. Generous, comforting, and not trendy, just delicious.”

Best Chilaquiles 

Martínez: “Lalo!. Ask for the chilaquiles verdes and add eggs.”
Henry: “La Tonina. OG northern-style home cooking that’s been around since the 1940s and makes obscenely good flour tortillas. The chilaquiles tamaulipecos come with salsa verde, pork, and rajas de poblano. Add a fried egg. Order a gordita de nata fresh off the comal for dessert.”
Reygadas: “La Esquina del Chilaquil. Tortas de chilaquiles served in bolillo in Condesa.”
Cámara: “Castacán. Get the chilaquiles with cochinita pibil. It’s exactly what you’d want on a slow Sunday morning.”

Best Bakery 

Martínez: “Odette. Go for the kouign-amann, baguette jamón y queso, and the double chocolate cookie.”
Henry: “Patisserie Dominique. Dominique is a maestra French baker who bakes the best cakes I’ve tried in my entire life and the best croissants in the city. If you’re lucky, you might find a piece of Galician-style tuna pie in the window.”
Reygadas: “Saint Panadería. Well-fermented, sturdy hogazas baked daily.”
Cámara: “Patisserie Dominique. A favorite for those of us who appreciate traditional French bread and pastries.”

Best Quick Bite 

Martínez: “Gorditas de chicharrón from a 40-year-old spot located on the opposite corner of Café Tormenta. I order it con quesillo, solo lechuga, no nopales, both salsas!”
Henry: “Lonchería Mely. A little fonda serving comida corrida overflowing with love and flavor.”
Reygadas: “Tacos de birria next to Panadería Rosetta.“
Cámara: “Tacos de canasta on Calle Tamaulipas.”

Best al Pastor 

Martínez: “A big tie between Taquería Selene and Tacos El Vilsito. Go for the tacos and order five. Don’t eat more or less.”
Henry: “Tacos El Vilsito. Between 11 p.m. and midnight is when the flavor is best.”
Reygadas: “Taquería Revolución. Proper char and fat, with well-balanced salsas.”
Cámara: “Taquería Selene. Don’t skip the salsas!”

Best Tacos 

Martínez: “Tacos El Paisa in Doctores. Go after hours.”
Henry: “Tacos El Paisa. Four suadero, two campechano, and if you’re still hungry, stroll a few blocks over to Tacos El Betín for pastor, tripa, and lengua.”
Reygadas: “Tacos de canasta at metrobus Álvaro Obregón.”
Cámara: “Tacos de guisado are my favorite. Try Tacos Hola El Güero in Condesa for the best next thing to home cooking.”

Best Place to Make a Good Impression 

Martínez: “Taco omakase at Pujol, always.”
Henry: “Gaba. It’s where I take family and close friends who are visiting. Refined and absolutely fucking delicious.”
Reygadas: “Bar Nino. The starters and seafood dishes stand out, and the tres leches has become a staple.“
Cámara: “Cana is refined and classy without feeling stiff.”

Best Splurge 

Martínez: “Máximo Bistrot. Let Chef Lalo take care of you. Start with bubbles, then order a white, and end with a heavy red.”

Henry: “Nicos. When I think of a splurge it’s less about fine dining and more about hours spent around a table with people you care about with classy service, delicious food, and conversation that never seems to end.”

Reygadas: “Máximo Bistrot has had a long-standing presence in the city’s dining scene. Go for the classics.”

Cámara: “Em Restaurant. You come for the sophistication of technique and ideas, but it retains its intimacy and warmth.”

Best Place to See and Be Seen

Martínez: “Café Tormenta. Grab a media luna and a lechero, don’t rush. Melt into the vibes, meet people, listen to the music, and then start your day.”

Henry: “Mercado el 100‘s Sunday farmers market has some of the best organic produce in the city and some great bites, but it’s also (sometimes painfully) quite the scene.”

Cámara: “Cantina Covadonga is where long meals and good conversations naturally overlap. It’s great for big groups.”

Best Place to Not Be Seen 

Martínez: “Ticuchi. Cave vibes.”

Henry: “Bar el Bosque–get the fish. Also, Patrick Miller, specifically in the dance circle around 1:30 a.m. on a Friday night.”

Reygadas: “Sushi Tatsugoro. Low-lit, private tables, and views over the Diana Cazadora.”

Cámara: “Any good “doriloco” stall, as those things include all the junk food which is a guilty pleasure of mine (and many Mexicans!).”

Best Solo Dining Spot

Martínez: “Fugu Sushi. Do the omakase and don’t miss the crab springroll.”

Henry: “Vacaciones. There is nowhere I’d rather be in the city dining alone (or with a loved one) than a bar seat at Vacaciones eating rustic, nonna-style Italian food. I eat here as much as possible, and I swear every meal is somehow better than the last.”

Reygadas: “Fugu Sushi is small and quiet with a counter-focused experience. Walk-in only.”

Cámara: “El Minutito. It’s easy to linger here alone and get a delicious bite at any time of the day.”

Best Dive Bar 

Martínez: “Bar Mauro, great non-alcoholic options too and people from Veracruz (my hometown) behind the bar!”

Henry: “Dive bars aren’t really a thing here, but Cafe Tacobar is easily the best example and is one where, over the years, I’ve spent many nights bullshitting with Khristian till the early hours of the morning.”

Reygadas: “Ticuchi. Literally a cave. Once you’re inside, it’s easy to lose track of time.”

Cámara: “El Ayer. Unpretentious in the best way.”

Best Wine List 

Martínez: “Pujol.”

Henry: “Fugaz or Cicatriz. Or skip wine altogether and go to Bósforo for mezcal. One of my favorite places to drink, listen, and just be in the world.”

Reygadas: “Cana. A concise, confident wine list.”

Cámara: “Hugo el Wine Bar.”

Best Late-Night Bite 

Martínez: “Any of the tacos mentioned above, plus Borrego Viudo.”

Henry: “Caldos de Gallina ‘Luis.’ A 24-hour chicken soup with warm tortillas, salsa, and a handful of garnishes.”

Reygadas: “Páramo; food that holds up at the end of the night.”

Cámara: “Los Cocuyos. The kind of spot that actually takes care of you 24/7. Order the suadero and the tongue.”

Best Hangover Cure 

Martínez: “Pozolería Teoixtla. Order the pozole blanco.”

Henry: “In a perfect hungover world, I’d lazily make my way to Post Café with a joint in hand, have a cappuccino, then get on my bike and cruise to La Tonina to snag a booth for a slow breakfast.”

Reygadas: “Campobaja. Baja-style seafood.”

Cámara: “For immediate recovery, go to Taller de Ostiones for cold beers and ultra-fresh oysters.”

Best Roma Norte Spot 

Martínez: “Contramar. The fish is good, but don’t miss the fish meatballs, seafood soup, or the esmedregal al pastor tacos. For dessert, try the fig tart and coconut cake.”

Henry: “C.O.M.E. A family-run Japanese fonda that’s been rocking for over 15 years with a cult following. It’s unreasonably affordable and feels like being part of a small club of in-the-know, food-loving neighbors. Shu-mai wasabi, edamame asado, wakame algae salad, kabayaki-don, and iced green tea.”

Reygadas: “Fugaz. A laid-back neighborhood restaurant with a vegetable-forward point of view.”

Best Polanco Spot 

Martínez: “Kleins. A 60-plus-year-old place.”

Henry: “I’m rarely in Polanco, but Ron Shu Xia for unpretentious Chinese grub—the soups are massive and hit hard. Ticuchi for a sexier, elevated bar experience with well-executed Oaxacan bites.”

Reygadas: “Pujol. A long-form tasting experience that rewards time and attention.”

Cámara: “Goya Taller.”

Best Chocolate

Martínez: “La Rifa.”

Henry: “Chocolatería La Rifa.”

Reygadas: “Casa Bosques.”

Cámara: “Chocolates Curryer.”

More of our favorite stories from CULTURED

Julie Delpy Knows She Might Be More Famous If She Were Willing to Compromise. She’s Not.
Our Critics Have Your February Guide to Art on the Upper East Side
Gus Van Sant (Loosely) Adapted Shakespeare and Cast William S. Burroughs. Here’s Who He’s Reading Now.
Pat Oleszko Has Turned Everything From Waiting Tables to Stripping Into Art. Five Decades In, the World Is Catching Up.
Move Over, Hysterical Realism: Debut Novelist Madeline Cash Is Inventing a New Microgenre

Sign up for our newsletter here to get these stories direct to your inbox.

Miami during Art Basel moves fast: There are fairs to hit, parties to survive, and just enough time between the two to remember you haven’t eaten since breakfast. Amidst it all, it’s tempting to fall back on the usual suspects or file into whatever line looks shortest. But there’s far more to eat in this city than whatever is within a five-block radius of the Convention Center.

To prove the point, we asked three of Miami’s most distinctive voices—Nando Chang of Itamae; Luciana Giangrandi, the co-owner of Michelin-starred Boia De; and André Bienvenu, the old-school executive chef behind Catch & Cut—to map their Miami for us. The ventanitas they swear by. The pastries worth crossing town for. The dive bars, the splurges, the hangover cures, and the places they go when they absolutely do not want to be seen.

Consider this our chef-edited guide to eating your way through ABMB.

Best Pastry Shop 

Nando Chang: “True Loaf. For me, it’s all about the Kouign Amanns and croissants.”

Luciana Giangrandi: “Facade or Madruga Bakery.”

André Bienvenu: “Mojo Donuts. They do an incredible job—just really great donuts, made right.

Best Cortadito 

Chang: “Suite Habana. Great coffee, great space, great people, and especially great chairs.”

Giangrandi: “Part of a good cortadito experience is enjoying it from a ventanita. Versailles is one of the best—they pump out a million a day and are true pros. Latin Café 2000 by the airport is great if you’re grabbing one on your way out of town. Tinta y Café is a go-to if you’re in Miami Shores or Coral Gables.”

Best Quick Bite

Chang: “Tacos Atarantado. Some of my favorite al pastor tacos right now. Great sauces and a great selection of Latin oldies.”

Giangrandi: “Proper Sausages. It may be a butcher shop, but they make some of Miami’s best sandwiches to go.”

Bienvenu: “Coconuts. Simple, well-executed food with waterfront dining and a true local vibe. It’s an easy go-to.”

Best Wine List

Chang: “Macchialina. Jackie Pirolo!! That’s it, that’s the tweet.”

Giangrandi: “I’m biased, but Boia De. Gaby, our wine director, makes one hell of a wine list, and has a real talent for guessing pours people will love.”

Bienvenu: “Casa D’Angelo, for the size and variety of the wine list, and for the staff’s deep knowledge of every bottle.”

Best Place to Make a Good Impression

Chang: “Sunny’s. If you want to make a good impression… take them to the best place in town.”

Giangrandi: “Recoveco. It’s off the beaten path, so you’re likely to surprise whoever you take. The menu changes regularly, everything is delicious, and the wine selection is top-notch.”

Bienvenu: “Anthony’s Runway 84. They do a great job of making you feel like you are someone. The team goes above and beyond and gives you a real reason to come back.”

Best Splurge

Chang: “The Surf Club. It’s a complete experience, magical in so many ways.”

Giangrandi: “Omakase at Shingo. The sushi is first-rate, the wine and sake list beautifully curated, even the florals are stunning. I’ve loved every visit.”

Bienvenu: “Joe’s Stone Crab. It’s the perfect combination of simplicity, consistency, quality, and history.”

Best Place to See and Be Seen

Chang: “Gekko.”

Giangrandi: “Sunny’s or Cote!”

Bienvenu: “Tropical Acres. Family-owned since 1949 and incredibly consistent. It’s one of my favorite restaurants with genuine old-school hospitality.”

Best Place to NOT Be Seen

Chang: “Lung Yai Thai Tapas. IYKYK.”

Giangrandi: “Billy’s Pub Too.”

Bienvenu: “Luigi’s Coal Oven Pizza. Fast, simple, low-profile.”

Best Solo Dining Spot

Chang: “Pasta in Wynwood. I love hitting the counter for a couple of pastas. I crush a bowl of the corn cappellacci and the pici cacio e pepe.”

Giangrandi: “The bar at Sunny’s. I feel like I’m in an episode of Cheers where everybody knows my name.”

Bienvenu: “McDonald’s. To me, it’s the world’s best restaurant. It’s clean, consistent, organized, and pleasant. And nothing beats a morning Coke.”

Best Date-Night Spot 

Chang: “Gabose for Charcoal-grilled Korean BBQ, beer, and banchan if we want to be laid back. Ariete in Coconut Grove if we want to celebrate a little more.”

Giangrandi: “The Surf Club. The building is stunning and gives you a reason to dress up. The service and food are spot-on. There’s a champagne cart. And they have great live music in the bar room on certain nights.”

Bienvenu: “Lobster Bar Las Olas. There’s an elegance that makes you feel special the moment you walk in.”

Best Late-Night Bite

Chang: “Pan con bistec at Mary’s Coin Laundry. Add huevo frito and make it bien tostado, please.”

Giangrandi: “Cote or Katana. Both kitchens are open until midnight, and although they’re totally different in food and price point, each has a fun, unique vibe.”

Bienvenu: “Mister O1 Pizza. A great pie and good energy. Sometimes I’ll meet my daughter there late at night; it’s our little spot.”

Best Dive Bar

Chang: “Brother’s Keeper on South Beach.”

Giangrandi: “On the Rocks. Beer-and-shot specials, check. Pool table, check. Bartenders with just the right amount of ‘no fucks given’ attitude, check.”

Best Hangover Cure

Chang: “Leche de tigre in any form. Locura Marina by North Beach has a variety of ceviches for lunch.

Giangrandi: “A toasted, everything bagel B.E.C, and a Mexican Coke from El Bagel.”

Best South Beach Spot

Chang: “Macchialina. The outside patio at 7 or 7:30 p.m., table for two. Who says no?”

Giangrandi: “Bettant Bakery for breakfast, Macchialina for dinner, and Mac’s Club Deuce for everything in between.”

Bienvenu: “Catch. They bring a different perspective to South Beach. Great menu, great energy, great location.”

Best Design District Spot

Chang: “Nami Nori. It offers great and fun Japanese food.”

Giangrandi: “Sushi Yasu Tanaka. Despite its food hall location, it’s some of the best sushi in the city.”

Bienvenu: “Michael’s Genuine.”

Best Caribbean Spot

Chang: “King Jerk. It’s a great Jamaican barbecue spot. If you’re from Miami, you know the ribs and the chicken.”

Giangrandi: “B&M Rhoti.”

Bienvenu: “Calypso Restaurant & Raw Bar.”

In this saturated ecosystem, there is one kind of recommendation that always stands out. Chefs spend their time cooking the food you love (and hate), so you’d better believe that when they go out to eat, they’ll want it to be worth the trek. That’s why we asked 25 of our favorites to dish on the eateries they haunt when they’re off-duty—and exactly how they navigate the menu.

Here, we share our findings—from well-kept secrets to time-honored standbys (including two spots so beloved that they were given the nod by two different chefs!).

Sunn’s (Chinatown), recommended by Sam Lawrence (Bridges)

“Sunny Lee is one of the most talented chefs in New York. She combines delicate technique with intense and delicious flavors. It’s undeniable, and you should order the whole menu.”

The Order: “Every banchan, particularly the specials. Don’t miss the seasonally changing salad or kimbap. Whenever she has the scallops her dad dives for on the menu, you must order them!”

Penny (Astor Place), recommended by Missy Robbins (Misi and Lilia)

“Their seafood is incredible, and the vibe is casual and fun.”

The Order: “My order always includes the bread and butter, a side of anchovies, ice box razor clams if they have them, and the best lobster I have ever had.”

Ootoya (Chelsea, Union Square, and Times Square), recommended by Joshua Pinsky (Claud and Penny)

“Ootoya is my tried and true. It is walking distance from my apartment. I go with my family, and the team there is so sweet with my 1-year-old. They even make her baby chopsticks.”

The Order: “We go there often enough that they remember our order. We exclusively do lunch and get the fish (salmon, mackerel, or butterfish) bento box set-up. It comes with a full spread of seaweed rice, pickles, miso soup, chawanmushi, and fresh tofu.”

César (Hudson Square), recommended by Eric Ripert (Le Bernardin)

“The food is exceptional, the service is always outstanding, and the wine list is excellent. On top of that, César has been a dear friend of mine for many years.”

The Order: “It is a tasting menu only—and rightly so. César is the boss, so he decides what I eat.”

abcV (Flatiron), recommended by Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park)

“The menu is constantly changing with the seasons, mostly ingredients from the greenmarket. The flavors are light, fresh, and delicious. They take inspiration from different cuisines, which is similar to what I do.”

The Order: “I always get the dosa with avocado.”

Wu’s Wonton King (Chinatown), recommended by Vijay Kumar (Semma)

“It captures the spirit of dining the way it should be… loud, communal, generous. You sit down, and the table just fills with plates. It’s the same energy I try to bring to my own restaurant, in that the food brings people together.”

The Order: “Make sure to order the crab and the crab fried rice. The crab comes piled high; it’s messy in the best way, you’re cracking shells, pulling out sweet meat. It feels like a celebration at the table. The fried rice is the perfect counterpart, every grain kissed with wok heat and carrying deep crab flavor. They’re the kind of dishes that remind me why dining there is so special: bold flavors, no shortcuts, and food that commands you to roll up your sleeves and join in.”

Rosella (East Village), recommended by Charlie Mitchell (Saga)

“I love the risks Chef Jeff takes with his food and the East Village vibe of his space.”

The Order: “The farro miso soup, spicy avocado roll, and the grits.”

Penny, recommended by Alexia Duchêne (Le Chêne)

“I love how European it feels in the approach. Very ‘less is more,’ no fuss, and delicious food. The wine list is amazing too, so when we are looking for a space to unwind after a busy week, it feels like the perfect choice.”

The Order: “I always order the shrimp cocktail, truly the best I’ve ever had. I stick to the raw section of the menu most of the time because I think that’s what they do best. Love the ice box mussels too.”

Cas West Indian and American Restaurant (Crown Heights), recommended by Paul Carmichael (Kabawa)

“I constantly crave it. Eating food from there always brings me joy.”

The Order: “Easy answer. Oxtail, rice and peas, plantains, and cabbage. It’s the best.”

Le Bernardin (Midtown) and Baby Sips (Lower East Side),recommended by Daniela Soto-Innes (Cosme)

“For fine dining, I love Le Bernardin. It’s one of those restaurants where everything feels intentional and soulful, from the way the dishes are plated to the way the room makes you feel. I love it because it slows me down and reminds me why dining can be so special.”

The Order: “Whatever tasting menu they are offering.”

“My new favorite wine bar is Baby Sips. The energy is fresh and unpretentious, and the wine list is thoughtful.”

The Order: “They serve the best tuna melt. It sounds simple, but it is perfect with a glass of chilled white wine.”

Ssaw (Williamsburg), recommended by Hiroki Abe (Jō)

“Chef Yusuke is an old friend, and it’s a great restaurant concept for customers. They have Kaiseki and à la carte options.”

The Order: “I like to do the Kaiseki, which is a prix fixe menu. They also have an amazing sake list.”

Lei (Chinatown), recommended by Nick Curtola (The Four Horsemen and I Cavallini)

“One of the best meals I’ve had in years was at Lei, in Chinatown, recently. Annie Shi created a space that is cozy and warm. The wines are really interesting and showcase more untapped regions such as China and Mexico. The food from Chef Patty is unique and surprising. I love its minimalist aesthetic and maximalist flavor approach that all feels so comforting and approachable.”

The Order: “Patty uses really interesting ingredients like lily bulb and celtuce, but also has plenty of luxurious little tricks up her sleeve in the way of a super-rich and aromatic braised short rib, soft shell crab with aji dulce peppers, and a beef carpaccio with a heroic amount of thinly sliced herbs. I’m dying to go back.”

Markette (Chelsea), recommended by Alireza Saboor (Eyval)

“I enjoyed a wonderful meal at Markette (formerly Haymarket) recently. I enjoyed the simplicity of the dishes, straightforward and seasoned well. Creating memorable dishes is difficult; creating memorable dishes that guests remember weeks after dining is exceptional.”

The Order: “The salt cod fritters and braised oxtail gratin.”

Birds of a Feather (Williamsburg), recommended by Joey Scalabrino (Apollo Bagels and Leo)

“I’ve been going to Birds of a Feather for years, and it never disappoints—it’s easily my favorite restaurant in New York. This past year, I traveled through Chengdu with a close friend who’s also a Birds superfan, and that trip only confirmed the level of cooking they’re executing here. The staff is nice and incredibly efficient, and whether you’re dining in or ordering delivery, the whole experience feels effortless and thoughtfully executed. Even delivery shows up lightning fast and still piping hot, which says everything about how much they care about the details.”

The Order: “Wood ear mushrooms, wontons in chili sauce, three pepper chicken, cold sesame noodles, mapo tofu, and the fried fish filet.”

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse (Tribeca, Times Square, Murray Hill, and Herald Square), recommended by Rawia Bishara (Tanoreen)

“It’s our family’s go-to when we want the quintessential New York steakhouse experience: straightforward, confident, and beautifully executed. As chefs, we spend our days layering spices, herbs, and textures. At Wolfgang’s, the pleasure is in restraint and precision: properly aged beef, a fierce broiler, clean seasoning, and old-school service that runs like a well-oiled machine. It feels celebratory without trying too hard. We’ll bring out-of-town guests to any of their locations because the standard never slips: the room hums, the martinis are cold, and the kitchen hits that perfect char every time.”

The Order: “We start with martinis and the classic shrimp cocktail—icy and simple—followed by fresh sliced tomato and onion. Then it’s the porterhouse with all the trimmings: creamed spinach, crispy German potatoes, and pecan pie to finish. It’s the kind of dinner that feels timeless—comforting, indulgent, and perfectly New York.”

Bé Bếp (nomadic), recommended by Chinchakriya Un (BONG)

“It’s delicious, it’s fresh. Chef Phoebe cross-pollinated her skills as a farmer/chef/nerd to bring us home-style Vietnamese food. Her dad ships fresh fruit from California for the most poetic fruit plates—she refers to them as a love language.”

The Order: “Grilled meats, fresh fruits, piles of herbs, and thoughtfully prepared jelly desserts.”

Sappe (West Village), recommended by Mary Attea (Raf’s)

“The flavors are bold and unapologetic. The atmosphere is loud and electric, but in the best way. It feels like a fun party every time you walk in the door.”

The Order: “My absolute favorite dish is the Yum Pu Dong, a raw fermented crab dish, drenched in chilies and fish sauce with a few grape tomatoes to barely help cool the fire in your mouth. It’s intense and addictive.”

Telly’s Taverna (Astoria), recommended by Nasim Alikhani (Sofreh)

“This restaurant has been making simple but top-quality Greek seafood for nearly 30 years. We’ve celebrated all our anniversaries and graduation dinners there.”

The Order: “They make the most delicious whole fish. We tend to pick the biggest fish on display. It requires expertise to do it right, and they always nail it.”

Zimmi’s (West Village), recommended by Nick Tamburo (Smithereens)

“Zimmi’s serves the type of food that you hope to encounter at a small bistro in Paris, but almost never do. [Chef] Maxime channels recipes from his grandmother’s kitchen and the French countryside. His food is seasonal and vibrant, familiar but still exciting. French restaurants are a dime a dozen in New York—especially right now—and new ones seem to be popping up everywhere. Zimmi’s is different; there’s a sense of care and technique that sets it apart.”

The Order: “The menu changes so often—is one of the things I love about Zimmi’s! Too many restaurants fall into complacency. If there is a paté or terrine, that’s a must-order for sure. Their pasta davia with pesto is a mainstay.”

Three Decker Diner (Greenpoint), Fanelli Cafe (Soho), Birds of a Feather, recommended by Angeles Chavarria (King)

“I can give you a list of all of the restaurants I wish to go, but to at the moment—between working at a restaurant and being a mom with a toddler—there are three main places in the rotation. There’s Three Decker Diner, Fanelli Cafe, and Birds of a Feather for take-out. I prioritize family-friendly places where we can build Legos and enjoy a cocktail at the same time.”

Thai Diner (Nolita), recommended by Telly Justice (HAGS)

“I’m a creature of habit. When I fall in love with a place, I will be loyal to it for years and years. When I was a younger line cook, I became enamored with Uncle Boon’s, and I’ve been a devotee of that restaurant group ever since. When they opened Thai Diner, it became a staple of my day-off diet. I can’t even begin to calculate how many times I’ve been there. I’ve sent so many visiting friends there. I’ve met so many chef friends there for a quick bite and gossip. It’s an essential New York restaurant in my opinion. The staff is incredible, casual, and attentive in all the right ways. The kitchen is so consistent and always exceeds expectations. As far as the food goes, there are no sleepers on the menu.”

The Order: “My absolute favorites are the Lobster Omelet, Chu Chee, Morning Glory Fai Dang, Thai Disco fries, and Uncle Boon’s Khao Pat Puu. If I’m there early enough to get breakfast, it’s really hard not to order the Thai Diner Egg Sandwich. It might be my favorite breakfast sandwich in New York, no small feat in a city famous for its breakfast sandwich culture. I will never not get the Beer Slushy, it’s a must!”

Ho Foods (East Village), recommended by Mike Fadem (Ops)

“This place has been quietly killing it for so long. They have a very small menu, which is always a good sign. The few things they do, they do super well. It’s one of the most reliable restaurants in New York, and now they even have great wine to pair with their delicious food.”

The Order: “Garlicky cucumbers, chili wontons, scallion pancake with egg, beef noodle soup.”

Demo (West Village), recommended by Fidel Caballero (Corima)

“Absolutely impeccable food without frills. Great wine list, and the service is immaculate.”

The Order: “Arroz a la plancha, the pasta is a must, and the crudos are made with sushi-like precision.”

Mission Chinese Food (Chinatown), recommended by Mathieu Canet (FOOD)

“Danny [Bowien] is a good friend of mine, and I’ve cooked many times with him in Paris and New York. I love his style.”

The Order: “The coconut lobster rice, addictive cabbage salad, spicy chongqing wings, and mapo tofu.”

Fish Cheeks (Noho), recommended by Soorosh Golbabae (Sawa)

“Thai flavors on point. I spent a few years living in South Asia and fell in love with some of those cuisines, especially Thai cooking. Some dishes at Fish Cheeks take me back there.”

The Order: “The Grilled pork cheek come with Jaew sauce, which is a perfect balance of swee,t sour spicy. Combined with the fat from pork cheeks, it’s the best bite.”

[INSERT_AD]

Gaz Herbert has cooked everywhere from London’s River Café to the Upper East Side’s Casa Cruz. But after years spent cutting his teeth in other people’s kitchens, he landed on Forsyth Street (in Flynn McGarry’s former Gem Wine space) in June with his very own restaurant: Comal.

In the new Lower East Side haunt, the chef, who grew up just outside of Mexico City until his family moved to Colombia when he was 5, has concocted a menu that’s as intimate as it is ambitious. It’s not Mexican, but it’s not not Mexican either, and that’s exactly the point. There’s masa stuffed into chicken wings, Korean rice cooked jollof-style, and mussels with corn custard.

“We’re working with Mexican ingredients, but also using techniques and influences from Korea, Japan, France, Spain, and Italy,” Herbert tells CULTURED. “It’s not traditional, and it’s not trying to be. My head chef and I both wanted the freedom to build dishes from instinct and not just heritage. The result is food that tastes familiar, that sparks memory, but isn’t something you’ve had before.” The precision of the plates is complemented by a tightly conceived interior, courtesy of design studio La Metropolitana, who have left their mark on CDMX’s most storied addresses (Contramar and Rosetta, among them), and Elena Martinoni.

As the buzz that’s built up around Comal translates into a steady flow of curious New Yorkers, CULTURED caught up with Herbert to talk about “fusion” food, what he’s cooking up for family meal, and why fine dining desperately needs more spice.

Where are you, and what’s in your system?

I’m at Comal, as usual. Living four blocks away makes for a pleasant walk to work each day. This morning, I grabbed a celery juice, made myself an oat cappuccino, and had a bite of a bacon, egg, and cheese. 

What did your relationship to food look like growing up? 

It was always there. I was born in Mexico City, and we always had people cooking at the house. My dad loved making Indian food—we’d cook curries together. I was always on a little stool in the kitchen, stirring a pot.

I was fascinated by the process. It was sound, it was heat, it was smell—all of the senses. I’ve always loved the idea that you do all these small jobs, and then it becomes something you get to enjoy and share. My mum still has these boxes full of recipes I was writing at age 3 or 4. I never wanted to be an astronaut or a firefighter; I just wanted to cook. 

Can you tell me about your upbringing in Cuernavaca? 

My mum didn’t want us growing up in the chaos of Mexico City, so we moved to Cuernavaca. It’s like something out of a Márquez novel. It’s called the City of Eternal Spring, everything is always in bloom. 

We left [Mexico City] when I was 5, then lived in Colombia, then the U.K. But Mexico always stayed with me. I started going back alone in my teens. When I was 18, I spent six months there and got my Mexican passport renewed—my last one was a baby photo with both my parents’ hands holding my head straight. Even without my blood family there, it felt like home. I spoke Spanish before I spoke English—I just forgot it for a bit. But going back at 18, it all started coming back.

The idea of Comal started while you were working at Ikoyi in London?

Yes. My background was all over the place—Mexican, Colombian, and Indian influences growing up, then training classically in French food. At River Café, I learned everything about Italian food. Then at Ikoyi, Jeremy Chan had this totally different approach. He didn’t come up through kitchens like I did, so he didn’t have that rigidity. He’d just deconstruct something completely and rebuild it in this playful way. That really unlocked something for me. I started thinking about what would happen if I took this approach to Mexican ingredients. Not to recreate the food I grew up with, but to work with it differently. One thing I always felt was missing in fine dining was spice. It’s a whole sensory experience that often gets overlooked. Mexico has this incredible repertoire of ingredients, and it felt like the perfect place to apply that same, flavor-first mindset we had at Ikoyi. 

You’ve said Comal isn’t trying to be a Mexican restaurant, and you’re not really into the word “fusion” either. So what is it?

That word, fusion, makes most chefs cringe. It became this early 2000s trend where people just smashed Asian flavors into European food. It felt gimmicky. But if we’re being technical, Comal is fusion. Just like Ikoyi is West African-inspired, this is a loose interpretation. Or maybe not even an interpretation, more like an objective approach to flavor.

From day one, we knew people would pigeonhole us into being a Mexican restaurant. And that’s fine, we’re not denying it, but we also don’t want to be boxed in. This is New York. You walk a single block and hear twelve different languages. Cultures blend here every day harmoniously, and I want the food to feel like that.

Let’s talk about what’s on the plate.

My head chef Scott McKay and I came up with a half chicken that I’m really proud of. It’s smoked and grilled so it has that BBQ flavor, but the wing is deboned and stuffed with masa. It’s kind of like an inverse tamale. Normally, you’ve got the masa outside and the filling inside. Here, it looks like a wing, but the taste is instantly familiar if you know Mexican food. 

We’re serving it with some of our hot sauces, and then there are sides like tortillas, guacamole, and this arroz rojo made with Korean rice; a little nod to jollof and Mexican tomato rice. So if you’re Mexican, it’ll taste like an amazing arroz rojo, but technically it’s a bit of a mash. That’s the idea. 

You kept some bones of the old Gem Wine space. How did you make it your own?

I always loved the space. The glass wall at the back reminded me of Mexico City—that was always going to stay. Flynn [McGarry] had already done a lot of great work converting it from Gem to Gem Wine, and the open kitchen was one of the best parts. That setup is rare in New York, so we kept it. At first we thought we’d do some light touch-ups, but we ended up ripping everything out and rebuilding it in our style. For people who knew the space before, it still feels familiar, just cleaner and more modern. 

All the furniture was built custom by La Metropolitana, who do interiors for basically every top restaurant in Mexico City: Contramar, Rosetta, all of them. I first saw their work at a hotel I stayed in a few years ago and became obsessed. I asked the front desk who made the furniture, and now we’re their first U.S. client. They’re actually using Comal as a showroom for American projects, which is really exciting.

When it’s your turn for family meal, what’s hitting the table?

It’s gonna be some sort of delicious Italian thing, like a caponata.

What dish sums up your life right now?

A monkfish guiso. It’s hot, spicy, a jumble of sorts, and delicious. My life feels a bit like that at the moment. 

What’s a kitchen etiquette rule that you live by?

Respect. No shouting, no egos. You just talk things through. That’s the kind of place I want to run. I know it’s not everyone’s experience, but I’ve never worked in a bullying kitchen and I don’t plan on starting.

What do you think the food community needs more and less of right now?

More innovation, fewer French restaurants.

Lovely Day

Where: 196 Elizabeth St, Nolita
Why It's Worth It: Lovely Day is the kind of spot you stumble upon—and then return to again and again. The space has a lived-in charm with dollhouse-like wallpaper and tiny red booths. The food Thai-inspires, the drinks are cheap, and the crowd is wonderful.
What to Order: Branch out! Order the Hobo noodles and the borderline-addictive ginger fried chicken. 
Where to Sit: Upstairs is ideal, but if there’s a wait, head outside and down the stairs. On the left, there’s a second dining room that most forget about.
Know Before You Go: It’s one of the best-priced meals in Nolita; a full meal with a drink won’t set you back more than $40.

Epistrophy

Where: 200 Mott Street, Soho
Why It's Worth It: During a week that could frazzle the toughest of nerves, make this cozy Sardinian cafe your home away from home. Striking a perfect balance between relaxed atmosphere and polished furnishings, it's a go-to for those looking to refuel without the scene-y chaos. 
What to Order: Try the cacio e pepe if you’re looking for something heartier, or the brussels sprout salad for a light indulgence. 
Where to Sit: Grab the sofa by the front door if you can. 
Know Before You Go: The bar serves up a great pour if you need a dose of joie de vivre in between two shows.

Raf’s

Where: 290 Elizabeth Street, Noho
Why It's Worth It: This buzzy spot is as well-dressed as you are, making it the perfect fashion week pit-stop. With a chic interior, classic crowd-pleasers (think steak tartare and roast chicken), and a focaccia that’s worth the carb splurge, it’s less about the meal and more about the moment. The real main course is the people-watching.
What to Order: Go straight for the sea bass and their squash with dates. 
Where to Sit: Beneath the dreamy, painted clouds of the main dining room’s Italian fresco.
Know Before You Go: No luck with a table? Hop across Houston to Raf’s sister spot, The Musket Room.

The Odeon

Where: 145 W Broadway, Tribeca
Why It's Worth It: This New York institution has seen it all: late-night deals, artists before they were famous, fashion editors sipping on cocktails over long lunches. Earlier this year, art-world honchos Nate Freeman and Benjamin Godsill told CULTURED that a meal at the Odeon “turns the act of the stop-and-chat into an Olympic sport.”
What to Order: Under the weather? Get the french onion soup. Perfectly healthy? Get it anyway.
Where to Sit: On the red leathery bench facing the main dining room. 
Know Before You Go: The Odeon claims to be the birthplace of the Cosmo, thanks to bartender Toby Cecchini in the late 1980s. 

Café Chelsea 

Where: 218 W 23rd St, Chelsea (duh)
Why It's Worth It: A true local favorite, this charming bistro serves up classic dishes in one of New York's most mythical hotels, offering a glimpse into the neighborhood’s rich artistic legacy.
What to Order: Indulge in their French toast filled with mascarpone and drizzled with cognac maple syrup, or go for the iconic Chelsea burger for a no-fuss choice. If you're looking for something lighter, their potato leek soup doesn’t skimp on flavor.
Where to Sit: Underneath the dining room skylight or on one of their red velvet banquettes.
Know Before You Go: The restaurant has a rotating art collection featuring works by past and present Hotel Chelsea residents.

Commerce Inn

Where: 50 Commerce St, West Village
Why It's Worth It: From the chefs behind I Sodi, Buvette, and Via Carota, this West Village tavern is cozy enough to escape the downtown chaos, yet close enough to slip back into the action. With its old-world tavern charm, it’s a great place to lay low… until the next show. 
What to Order: Their pancakes and omelette with leek and ricotta are the perfect mix of sweet and savory. 
Where to Sit: In a snug booth by the window.
Know Before You Go: The interior nods back to the timeless charm of 1900s West Village, the location having been a neighborhood staple for nearly a century.

KazuNori

Where: 205 Bleecker Street, Greenwich Village
Why It's Worth It: There are no menus to scan, no decisions to overthink—just hand rolls, made fresh, handed to you one by one to be eaten immediately. The rice is warm, the nori crisp, the fish fresh, and the whole experience will only set you back half an hour. 
What to Order: The 6-roll set is the best way to try a bit of everything—or go for the bay scallop and crab hand rolls. 
Where to Sit: Elbow-to-elbow on the long sushi counter.
Know Before You Go: Don’t be spooked if there’s a line. You’ll be seated quicker than you think.

Bar Oliver

Where: 1 Oliver Street, Chinatown
Why It's Worth It: At first glance, Bar Oliver looks like just another trendy downtown spot. But the food will transport you to the pintxo bars of San Sebastián. 
What to Order: The gilda is a perfect salty bite. Or opt for the chistorra and seasonal mushrooms with egg yolk.
Where to Sit: If you’re a smoker, sit outside. Bar Oliver is one of the rare spots in the city that still has ashtrays on the tables!
Know Before You Go: Indulge with some vermouth. Just trust us. 

Dimes Deli

Where: 143 Division Street, Chinatown
Why It's Worth It: Dimes Deli is the antidote to NYFW chaos. This is where you'll find something nourishing, without overthinking it.
What to Order: The seared salmon bowl is protein-packed deliciousness. Or get the chili for the soul. 
Where to Sit: There’s only one countertop so it’s a shared silence situation—perfect if you just want to zone out and eat without small talk.
Know Before You Go: Dimes Market is right next door, so if you need a snack for later, pop in after your meal.

Le Gratin

Where: 5 Beekman Street, Fidi 
Why It's Worth It: Tucked inside the Beekman Hotel, Le Gratin is Daniel Boulud’s delectable love letter to Lyon. 
What to Order: The escargot is a must. If you prefer to play it classic, the roasted chicken is a go-to.
Where to Sit: The brown leather couches in the back, tucked beneath the mirror-clad walls—perfect for keeping an eye on who walks through the door.
Know Before You Go: Account for dessert when you're ordering. We know you'll want it by the end of your meal.

Vinegar Hill House

Where: 72 Hudson Ave, Downtown Brooklyn
Why It's Worth It: Nestled on a quiet cobblestone street, this Brooklyn gem offers a welcome escape from the Manhattan frenzy—it has the rustic charm of an Upstate retreat, minus the drive.
What to Order: The rigatoni, cast iron chicken, and of course, their famous Guinness chocolate cake.
Where to Sit: Cozy up in the main dining room during the colder months.
Know Before You Go: Share everything—the food is too good to keep to yourself.

Misi

Where: 329 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg
Why It's Worth It: Misi is all about precision and restraint. It’s not trying to reinvent Italian food—it’s just doing it really, really well. The place is sleek but warm and the pasta is delicious. No notes.
What to Order: The ricotta toast is a must to start. Then go with the brown butter tortellini and finish that off with the olive oil ice cream.
Where to Sit: The counter seats facing the open kitchen. Watch the masters at work.
Know Before You Go: Don't expect heavy mains. You’re here for handmade al dente bites, not a steak.

Casa Cruz

Where: 36 E 61st Street, Upper East Side
Why It's Worth It: Wrapped in rich wood paneling, glowing in soft candlelight (yes, even at noon), this Uptown hotspot turns a midday bite into a full-fledged indulgence. Who said luxury should wait until dinner?
What to Order: The beef wellington, or the branzino for the pescetarians.
Where to Sit: Next to the nearest Warhol.
Know Before You Go: Reservations are elusive, but if luck is on your side—and the downtown set is otherwise occupied—you just might snag a table.

Casa Tua

Where: 20 E 76th Street, Upper East Side
Why It’s Worth It: Casa Tua’s Upper East Side outpost is built on two decades of the restaurant group's success in Miami Beach, Aspen, and Paris. Here, simple yet refined dishes are accompanied by an ambiance steeped in art, culture, and understated elegance at the Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel.
What to Order: Take a pick from any of their signature pastas and finish your meal with their famous pistachio ice cream.
Where to Sit: Angle for a spot by one of the restaurant's impressive works on display, from artists including Roe Ethridge, Frank Gehry, Candida Höfer, and Seydou Keïta. 
Know Before You Go: If you're looking for a lighter fare, or simply a place to take the weight off your heels, slip into the Casa Tua lounge for a perfectly frothy cappuccino or a specialty crafted cocktail.

Le Rock 

Where: 45 Rockefeller Plaza, Midtown
Why It’s Worth It: Le Rock makes any trip to Midtown sweeter. Brought to you by the Frenchette team, the restaurant captures the charm of classic French dining while ditching the stuffy atmosphere.
What to Order: Don’t miss the duck confit—crispy, tender perfection—or the velvety butternut squash soup.
Where to Sit: On the leather couch, right in the heart of the action. 
Know Before You Go: The wine list is stellar, so pair your meal with a glass (or two) from their carefully curated selection.

C as in Charlie
Noho

At C as in Charlie, the party kicks off the moment you step inside. Guests are greeted with a complimentary sake shot, a cheerful nod to the Korean concept of Jeong—which roughly translates to a sense of kinship. Nothing says “Welcome!” quite like free alcohol. And the sentiment is even embodied in the management—the joint is helmed by three Korean friends from Atlanta.

While diners indulge in popcorn chicken and baby back ribs, the real entertainment awaits in the restroom. A projector displays a man intoning prime numbers, adding an oddball touch to the visit and some awkward eye-contact. Using the loo can be a communal activity too!

Sushi on Me
Jackson Heights (the Williamsburg location is great, but far less animated)

This cash-only, bottomless-sake spot in Queens opens up to a sign reading “Enjoy your fucking dinner,” and that you will. Chef Tangjantuk leads the charge with his singular spirit, shouting playful obscenities as he serves up the “fucking nigiri,” and orders you to “drink your fucking sake.” 

Amid the jazz performances (nightly Thursday through Sunday) and the playful banter experience between chef and diner, guests are encouraged to raise their glasses and toast every few minutes, forging connections with the strangers who quickly become friends by the end of the night. The meal kicks off with fresh sashimi, followed by over 10 courses of nigiri, and ends with a hand roll that tastes like pure bliss amidst sake-fueled haze.

Kenka 
East Village

At first glance, Kenka on St. Marks looks like your typical late-night izakaya—if your typical izakaya were decorated with pornographic posters and a statue of a beaver. But upon reading the menu, things take a turn for the absurd. Among the more extreme options like "bull penis," "BBQ intestines," and "raw beef liver," there are some surprises Kenka doesn’t quite advertise.

Take, for instance, the unassuming takoyaki. While most of the fried balls are filled with the standard minced octopus meat, one diner will enjoy a mouthful of wasabi instead. Consider it Kenka’s version of Russian roulette. To soothe the burn, the Sapporo drafts here are a shockingly cheap $1.50. 

Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. After finishing off some adventurous meats and combustible snacks, there is a DIY cotton candy machine where brave diners can spin their own sugary treat to go. 

The Dinner Detective
Tribeca

When small talk runs dry and you're hungry for something more, the Dinner Detective delivers a high-stakes guessing game disguised as a three-course meal. Participants are placed right in the middle of a murder mystery that unfolds between bites. Unlike a standard whodunit, anyone could be a suspect—whether it’s the waiter, the person sitting nearby, or even yourself, so it’s essential to stay sharp between mouthfuls of salmon or roasted chicken. As clues drop and tensions rise, the enigma deepens, thanks to prop guns, sudden blackouts, and unexpected twists. Pro tip: For added entertainment, there’s an option to frame someone in your party as a prime suspect.

BATSU!
East Village

A Japanese comedic staple, batsu turns losing into a hilarious game of humiliating punishment. Seven thousand miles from their origin, behind an unassuming door in the East Village, New Yorkers can savor this torture with a side of sushi and sake bombs (you might be noticing a trend here). There is no need to be a sadist to appreciate the show at BATSU!—though it might help. 

Once orders are placed, warriors take on absurd challenges to avoid the dreaded “Gong of Punishment.” BATSU!’s penalties include nose hair plucking, paintball shots on bare skin, and electric shocks. Pro tip: For those eager to participate, VIP tickets are a must. These ticket holders don hachimaki bandanas to show they’re ready to dive into the madness and signal to the Sake Ninja for bottomless pours.

Raoul’s 
Soho

While Raoul’s is famous for its steak au poivre and fluffy beignets, the French restaurant has kept one juicy little secret. On Thursdays and Fridays, as you’re making your way to the restroom, the lovely Avril Brenig sits by the stairs, offering $50 tarot card readings in 15-minute sessions. Need a break from a tedious date or an endless work rant? Take a detour and let her soothe your nerves. Or heighten them? Depends on what the fortunes have in store.

Dinner Party
Clinton Hill

In 2021, six friends with a shared vision created Dinner Party, a restaurant designed to replicate the homiest of meals. Their apartment-like space, reopening in Clinton Hill on Nov. 1, emphasizes the importance of good company alongside good food. Whether guests are sitting at communal tables with strangers or in their own group, the goal is for everyone to feel as though they are dining among friends. 

The menu, changing weekly, is a tribute to home-cooked meals, drawing on influences from French, Italian, and Californian cuisine. Items on the menu often include fresh pastas, roasted meats, and seasonal vegetables. 

Stoned Pizza
East Village/Bronx

The decriminalization of weed in New York has led to all kinds of creative ways to indulge. In the East Village, $120 at Stoned Pizza gets you all-you-can-eat pizza, each pie infused with a carefully measured dose of cannabis. Alternatively, in the Bronx, pizza is offered by the slice. The staff act as medical sherpas and guide customers through their experience. 

As for the pizza, they have classic pepperoni alongside their own creations like the “Stoner’s Delight,” loaded with cheese, bacon, and spicy honey. Cannabis-infused garlic knots and wings are also available. By the time dessert arrives—brownies and cookies with a light infusion—the restaurant has become a shared experience. Nothing bonds people quite like good food, good vibes, and, well, getting high together. 

BONUS: Marjorie Eliot's Parlor Entertainment
Harlem

Don't come to Marjorie's hungry, as finger food is the most sustenance you'll get here, but do prepare to have your cultural appetite filled. Every Sunday for the past 32 years, Marjorie Eliot has opened her apartment for jazz performances in her Harlem living room. Free and open to all, each performance has a rotating lineup of musicians with Marjorie on the piano, often including acclaimed names in the jazz world.