Theobroma cacao, the scientific name for chocolate, translates to “food of the Gods” in ancient Greek. Since its first recorded discovery in 3300 BC to its first known use as xocolātl (a frothy cacao drink by Mesoamerican civilizations including water, cornmeal, and chili), it has captured our stomachs and minds throughout history.
I love chocolate in all of its forms, yet in a world of dark chocolate enthusiasts I have always erred on the side of milk chocolate. Let my wine be fine and my chocolate be… junky. Bring me the Cadbury, those Dove mini squares, and Tony’s Chocolonely if I’m feeling fancy. And lucky for me, my preference for milk chocolate might not be so bad after all…
There is a lot to think about when it comes to choosing which chocolate to eat these days and how. It was news to me to learn that cadmium and lead are serious contaminates in dark chocolate until CULTURED’s senior editor, Ella Martin-Gachot, brought it to my attention. (Over a box of chocolates I might add.) According to Consumer Reports, most of our everyday chocolate brands are either high in cadmium, lead, or both. Cadmium contamination is coming from the soil the cacao plant is grown in, while the lead contamination is coming from the air or dust as the beans ferment. Concentrations are especially high in dark chocolate that has higher levels of cacao.
The list of brands that have higher levels of contamination is vast and long, so here is the list of the brands with the least amount of contamination: Mast, Taza, Ghirardelli, and Valrhona came in relatively low compared to others. (Ghirardelli is one of my favorite brands to bake with, so I am holding onto that with some level of relief.)
Because dark chocolate is often marketed as a health food (natural cocoa is naturally high in antioxidants and flavonoids), my suggestion is to research the brands you eat most often to see if they have been tested. Also, it’s a natural plug for choosing milk chocolate, because concentrations of cadmium and lead are considerably less as the cocoa concentration decreases.
Contamination aside, my other looming chocolate query was on Dutch process cocoa powder vs. natural cocoa powder. I love baking chocolate treats and have always noticed the specification of “Dutch process” without ever knowing what it means or what the difference is?
It turns out Dutch processed cocoa, developed by a Dutch chemist in the 1800s, is treated with “alkali” to increase its pH, which in turn decreases its acidity and gives it a rounder, smoother flavor. The “tang” of natural cocoa powder is mellowed. According to America’s Test Kitchen, it also lends itself to a “rich and moist” flavor when compared to baked goods using natural cocoa. As a rule of thumb, you use Dutch processed in recipes with baking powder and natural cacao in recipes with baking soda (which, essentially, alkalinizes it.)
When you think of the original use of cacao in the Americas, it was for the most part, savory. From the xocolātl drink to present day mole recipes, natural cocoa serves as a spice not a confection. I often use natural cocoa in my sweet baking recipes; I like the tang, and it serves to balance a sweet accompaniment such as whipped cream. With that said, my research into natural cocoa powder was grim, and I hesitate to recommend any brand with confidence. (It would take my own testing lab to be able to do so, so I’ll stick to checking Consumer Reports for now.) At the end of the day, my take away is one we all try to live by: “everything in moderation.” Which is to say don’t stop eating chocolate, but do your research and don’t have it for all three meals every day.
Thankfully, my favorite ways to eat chocolate happen to naturally be “moderate.” I like my chocolate with a good dose of salt—think chocolate dipped pretzels, chocolate covered caramels, or my ABSOLUTE fave, chocolate with hazelnuts or any form of a Nutella inspired spread on really good bread. Some of my favorite chocolate shops in New York and beyond reflect just that motto, so here’s where I recommend indulging for Mother’s Day and beyond:
Fine and Raw: This is the best chic, hippy-meets-high-quality chocolate vibe. I will never get enough of the chocolate hazelnut spread and the brownie heart bonbons.
Li-Lac Chocolates: Manhattan’s oldest chocolate shop, founded by a Greek immigrant no less… a classic!
Nunu Chocolates: The sea salt caramels are to die for and will make any human being (especially mom) SWOON.
Leonidas Chocolate: An artist I used to cook for would gift these chocolates every Christmas. They are so delicious and fancy, a true pampering treat.
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