A coffee sipped in a haze of tuberose. The “airy fluidity” of a Valentino gown. The perfumers behind Anatomy of Dreams, Valentino Beauty’s haute fragrance collection, share the memories, the raw materials, and private obsessions that inspired each mesmerizing scent.
Nicolas Bonneville, Private talk
“I have a specific memory of coffee enjoyed on my terrace in Paris during the summer, surrounded by tuberose. This unexpected encounter left a mark on me. I had to find the place, the stitching point, between the robust elements: tuberose, coffee, creamy milk. Finding the perfect balance among ingredients with strong personalities is like a sewing project.”
Yann Vasnier, Amour sans détour
“Amour sans détour is a dialogue between the fragility of the violet flower, the rawness of leather, but also the earthy side of violet leaves, and the sensuality of skin. The signature is present from the very beginning. You know what you are getting right away. It’s this brightness, this greenness, combined with sensuality. ‘Sans détour’: You can’t escape it.”
Fabrice Pellegrin, Sogno in rosso
“I wanted to tell a new story about orange blossom. It’s candid and delicate, so I spiced it up with black pepper. It’s the story of a strong contrast, a chiaroscuro between the black pepper vibrancy that melts into a very white, very vaporous milk foam accord. Perfume is both a complex alchemy and a pure emotion. There’s nothing rational about it, and that’s the magic of it.”
Fanny Bal, Punk romantic
“The greatest reward for a perfumer is to smell the perfume you’ve created out on the street. Punk romantic is unconditional love for vanilla in a lively storm of spices. Vanilla is all about self-indulgence, addiction, and sensuality. It brings generosity and an immediate pleasure to the fragrance. The freshness and energy of spices—the explosion of pink pepper and juniper berries—give it verticality and lift.”
Paul Guerlain, Notte d’oro
“Oud is much more than an animalic scent—there are so many facets to explore, including fruity undertones. I wanted to bring a different shade to oud with an ultra-addictive, slightly suave, and almost regressive almond. Notte d’oro is a perfect balance between the oud note, the liquorous addiction of almond, the juiciness of black cherry, and the jasmine, which links these contrasting ingredients, adding a sunny aura.”
Nathalie Lorson, L’innocence de l’air
“The rose is a recurring theme in perfumery. I wanted to interpret rose in a totally new approach, revealing it in all its facets and secrets, at once vegetal and green, floral and sensual, delicately tangy. I wanted to capture a certain airy lightness, a fluidity that echoes Valentino couture. For me, what is extraordinary is the surprise created by the unexpected combination of ingredients.”
Delphine Lebeau, Behind the seen
“My great aunt had a property in the South of France with hazelnut trees in the garden, and I remember the good times I had there. Behind the seen translates this memory and evokes the surprise of an almost hidden ingredient, not visible at first sight. The structure of the fragrance also makes me think of the structure of the hazelnut, whose fruit is hidden behind an enveloping shell.”
Andrew Everett, Club couture
“No perfumery ingredient is feminine or masculine. There are, of course, structures that we associate with one or the other, depending on how we use the ingredients. We wanted something inclusive and uplifting, colorful with sharp contrasts. The fig feels bright and young. Then there is iris, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, also known as perfumers’ blue gold. To make a modern perfume, you must cut the connection with older perfumes. You have to twist the way you combine ingredients and push the boundaries. Make mistakes—this is how you learn!”
Learn more about Valentino’s Anatomy of Dreams at Valentino.com.
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