London’s stages are a thing of legend. Tucked away on the north side of the city are venues mixing the historic with the new, showing Greek tragedies alongside American Psycho and debut compositions. Many have traveled across the pond to catch a production, but few land in London with the knowledge of must-visit spaces, or the best bar to host a post-show debrief. Luckily, local director Josie Rourke knows it all.
The filmmaker and theater stalwart is known for projects like Mary Queen of Scots as well as her work as the previous artistic director of Bush Theater and Donmar Warehouse, where she was the first woman to lead a major London venue. Last month, she opened a sold-out show at the Royal Court Theater. She sat down with actor Jenna Coleman to discuss how place impacts creativity, particularly in Islington, where they both have lived and worked. The conversation was the second installment of “The Cultural Index: The Future of the Connected Experience” series from Tishman Speyer in partnership with Genesys, held at the new space Angel Square.
Following the talk, CULTURED caught up with Rourke for a personal guide through the neighborhood, complete with her tip for how to blend in as a visiting traveler.
Where are you right now? What do you see, hear, and smell?
I’m at the top of Primrose Hill, on one of the great North London walks. I’m sitting on a bench overlooking the whole city with my tiny poodle-terrier cross, who is ball-obsessed and keeps leaping up and interrupting my view of the skyline.
How much time do you spend in Islington?
I lived in EC1 [in East Central London] for the entire time I was artistic director of the Donmar Warehouse. Before that I was further east, on the N1/Hackney border. I love this part of London—its dense history, its fruitful, secretive corners. And Clerkenwell, where I lived for many years, has an astonishing craft heritage, from goldwork to leatherwork. I’m still a North London resident and spend my weekends wandering these neighborhoods.
What sets the neighborhood apart from anywhere else in London?
The neighborhood is threaded with remarkable arts venues: the Almeida Theatre—arguably the best in London—Sadler’s Wells with its world-class dance program, and my personal favorite, the Little Angel Theatre, a tiny and perfect puppet theater. Every corner reveals culture.
What is something someone can do, wear, or say to look like a local?
I think you can always spot a tourist here in the winter because they are wrapped up much more warmly than the locals! Londoners never seem to really sport outdoor gear. It’s more two jumpers and an old scarf.
What is your ideal theater itinerary in the city?
This city has one of the richest theater traditions in the world, and on any given evening there are dozens of productions to choose from, from tiny rooms above pubs to glittering West End playhouses, to open-air performances at Regent’s Park or the Globe in summer.
What is your pick for a local restaurant you can actually get into for dinner?
I just love an Ottolenghi supper—delicious, reliable, unfussy, and you can usually find a table if you time it right.
Underrated Saturday-afternoon activity?
A rainy-day matinee at the gorgeous Screen on the Green cinema, followed by some vintage shopping in Camden Passage. Perfectly low-key and perfectly Islington.
Where do you go when you’re craving inspiration?
I come back to the top of Primrose Hill and sit with my thoughts—when the dog allows it.
What shop do you always make sure to stop in?
St Peter’s Italian Church in EC1 runs a wonderful Christmas Crib shop, full of hand-carved wooden nativity figures. Next door is Terroni of Clerkenwell, a tremendous Italian deli that opened in 1878. I stock up on panettone gifts there every year.
Best place for a late-night drink?
One of the great things about this neighborhood is how quickly you can be in the West End—the 19 and 38 buses whisk you there in no time. I’ve been a member of the Groucho Club for 20 years, and it’s still my favorite place for a late-night, post-show drink.
in your life?
